diy mobile pediatric stander
Rochester Institute of Technology Senior Design Group 14045Groups Public WebsiteBackground: A motorized pediatric stander is a device similar to a wheelchair, meant to assist a disabled child to move around their environment in an upright position. The device should be able to provide safe, comfortable, and smooth transportation of the passenger, with the ability to be controlled by a third party. A previous prototype used buttons to control its movement, but the start/stop was found to be very jerky and the stander did not track straight.
The remote control functionality was attempted, but was not fully implemented. care Safety features were not fully developed.Goal: Make interchangeable controls, tray system, wheel and battery box for a mobile pediatric stander.
The accessories have to be capable with different models of the stander, and need to be self contained.Components for Build: *Images courtesy of the Democrat and ChronicleSee attached document below for the required build materials. The tray system was built out of the following parts: The main goals for the tray system are to move left, right, forward and back.
The support system consists of what is below and will be discussed in the next steps:Parts List:44in of 80/20 Inc. T slot Aluminum (1x1in)Six->1/4-20 set screws (1/2in long)Six-> 80/20 Inc. End CapsFourteen-> 80/20 Inc. 10 Series 3204 Standard Slide-in 1/4-20 T-Nut Four 1/4-20 Thumb Screws (1in long)Four-> Right Angle Brackets-> socket head screws (1.
5in long)-> socket head screws (1in long)Tooling: One-> 3mm Allen wrench One-> 3/16in Allen wrench One-> 5/32in Allen Wrench One-> Loctite 262 Thread locker (used on all screws except adjustable thumb screws) One-> ¼-20 TapProcedure:1. Cut the 80/20 T slot Aluminum stock into the following pieces:Quantity-> Dimensions Two-> 5 ½ in One-> 3 3/8 in One->12 in Two-> 1 3/8 in Two-> 8 inDrilling and Tapping Locations: 2. Drill all the ends of the T-slotted material with a 13/64 inch drill bit and then tap them with a ¼-20 tap.
This will allow for the ends to bolted together or have the ends capped. For the thumb screws a ¼ inch drill bit will need to be used to create a hole location that is a ½ inch away from the end.3. Total of six locations will have to be drilled with a ¼ inch drill bit and finished with a 7/16 inch counterbore.
Two total will be placed on either end of the 12 inch T-slot section a half inch from the end to center of the hole. Two other will be at the end of the two 5 ½ inch t-slot sections, a half inch from the end to center of the hole. Note these counterbored holes will need to be on the same side as beauty the holes that were drilled for the thumb screws.
Two will also be added to the 8 inch t-slot section ¾ inch from the end to center of the hole. See picture for assistance on the counterbore locations.4. Attach the sections together as demonstrated in the drawing.
*Loctite in each screw except thumb screws.*Make the upper holding arm out of 1/8 inch aluminum. Cut the pieces to match the drawing above and round them to size, then weld them together.
Hole Locations1/4 inch holes should be drilled to match the locking hinge first on the upper holding arm then transferred over to the lower holding arm.*Note: When attaching the holding arm to the locking hinge, use tape on the bolts to set them in location.Make the top tray platform, tray spacer, and protector sheet out of 1/4 inch acrylic.
Use a band saw and a mill to cut and shape all of the above acrylic pieces. Drill with a counter sunk 1/4 inch drill bit with the holes on the top tray platform and the protector sheet. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill the tray spacer holes.
Make the industry lower holding arm of 1/8 inch aluminum. Cut the pieces to match the drawing above and round them to size, then weld them together.Use this hinge to enable the adjustable locking feature for this project.
It can be found at the Adjustable Locking Technologies's Website.There are two options for adapting the wheel adapters to fit the parallax wheel mount kits.Option 1:The .zip file contains 3D CAD models of a replacement wheel adapter.
These can be used to either 3D print the replacement wheel adapters or have them machined via CNC.There are a few issues with this option:Option 2:The round section of the stock adapter can be machined to fit the parallax wheel adapters. The part of the base of the adapter that faces the wheels from the motor kit needs to be shortened so that the total width is about 1.
625" long.
The front and back sections of it should be machined in equal portions so that its total length is about 2", or until you can reach the bolts in the adapter block with the wheel adapter mounted on it.An adapter is needed to connect the factory wheel mount to the parallax wheel mount. Schematics for the wheel mount system can be found below.
The design was created by RITs MSD group 13045.The battery box was designed to fit the stander driver controls (two motor controllers, the Bluetooth piece, a Tiva board micro controller, a solderless breadboard, and all corresponding wiring) beauty as well as house the battery. Make the box out of 1/4 inch aluminum for robustness and screw placement.
The detailed panel designs can be found in the pdf file below. Weld the box together, except for the top piece and the side that holds the controllers and Tiva board. We recommend welding before drilling and threading the mounting holes as the aluminum will warp during welding.
Widen/move holes as needed to accommodate the plugs post-weld. Machine/sand down the welds to create a smooth finish. Plastic spacers may need to be created when mounting the electronics within the box to overcome the weld joints.
We used scrap acrylic for such spacers.
We recommend power sanding down the surfaces before priming and painting.Materials needed:-Safety glasses-Respirator (mostly for post-processing)-Chopped Strand Mat (CSM) sheet-Polyester Resin and MEKP catalyst-Mixing stick and container (must be PP or PE)-Acetone (not pictured)-2 Pairs of Latex Gloves (cannot use Nitrile unless under the latex) -Paper towels-Disposable Drop cloth (recommended but not required)-Paint brush-Scissors-Utility Knife-Scale (measures to a tenth of a gram)-Ruler or tape measure (not pictured)-80 Grit Sand paper (the coarser the better)CAUTION: This procedure requires the use of volatile chemicals and an irritant. Make sure to work in a well-ventilated area, wear safety glasses, safety gloves, and any other personal protective equipment you deem necessary.
DO NOT WEAR CONTACT LENSES while working with volatile chemicals. Fiberglass can be a mild skin irritant. industry Long sleeves are recommended. Procedure:1. Measure, mark out, and cut the CSM pieces needed. There should be one piece for each surface receiving the insulation.
Allot extra material for some overlap along the inside corners of the box as well as for material to stick up over the edges.2. Sand the inner surfaces of the box that will receive the fiberglass. This step is to roughen the aluminum surface for better bondage with the resin.
3.
Wash out the inside of the box (it's aluminum and won't rust) with soap and water. Dry completely (blast with compressed air if available). 4. Tape down drop cloth over your work surface (if using).
While wearing latex gloves wipe down all surfaces with an acetone-soaked paper towel. Dispose of gloves used gloves. 5. Find the combined mass of all the fiberglass pieces. Put on a fresh pair of gloves and pour out 1.
5-2 times that mass amount of resin (it's better to have more than not enough so you don't have to scramble to mix more while the first batch starts curing). Add 1-5% mass of catalyst to the resin. Mix. DO NOTbeat or whip the resin as air bubbles need to be avoided. Make sure to churn the bottom resin up to ensure complete mixing of the catalyst and resin.
6.
Mix for about 5 minutes or until the mixture turns an amber color.7. Place the pieces over the aluminum sides and wet out the fibers by dabbing resin with the paintbrush. Make sure to properly wet out the fibers – they will turn translucent.
Again it is better to have applied extra resin. Immediately submerge paint brush is acetone once finished wetting out if you want to re-use the brush. Otherwise leave it in a well-ventilated area or fume hood for the polyester in it to fully cure (12 hours).
DO NOT leave on a counter for it will cure to the counter. Rest it over the edge of the mixing cup.8. Wait 30 min and then slice off the excess fiberglass that sticks up out of the box with the utility knife.
It will be easiest during this stage of cure.9. Allow the box to cure untouched for at least 12 hours. Leave the mixing cup and stick in a well-ventilated area or fume hood to finish curing.
DO NOT leave the mixing stick on the counter for it will cure to it. Rest it over the edge of the mixing cup.DO NOT POUR ANY UNCURED RESIN DOWN A SINK – once cured the resin is safe to dispose of in regular trash.
Post-processing: DO NOT DRY SAND OR FILE FIBERGLASS WITHOUT A RESPIRATOR, SAFETY GLASSES, GLOVES, AND A DUST COLLECTION SYSTEM. Fiberglass can permanently irritate and destroy lung tissue if inhaled (similar to asbestos). Wet sanding is the best way to eliminate fiberglass dust from getting into the air.
10.
Once completely cured, Dremmel out any holes or surfaces that may have been covered accidentally with resin while taking all aforementioned safety precautions. Use clamps to hold the plastic to the metal when drilling holes to prevent separation. 11. Carefully sand down plastic, creating a level surface.
Be careful not to sand the material off however.12. After all post processing (external and internal) to the box is complete (including priming and painting) bake the box at 120⁰F for 30-60 minutes in an oven where food will not be prepared. Make sure to run a fan or vent hood while baking as the box will outgas styrene (not healthy) as it bakes.
DO NOT raise the temperature above 120⁰F.Materials:The shelf for the battery box is made out of 1/8" thick sheet aluminum.Feel free to paint the components as you see fit.
In our completed build, we painted them black.There are 3 main Parts to the Electrical system, the stander driver, stander controls, and the remote. The Stander Driver This is the part that remains on the stander at all times.
After you build it you shouldn't have to mess with anything inside the battery box. This is the part that will do most of the heavy lifting as far as the control system is concerned. It asks the other 2 pieces for their input and will take those and a few other things into consideration, (potentiometer and bump sensor), and will translate all of that into a speed for the wheels.
This also encompasses the motor drivers and any other electrical parts on the stander that aren't ever switched out.Stander Controls The controls should be changeable as long as there is a UART connection up top that will respond when called with a named button response. Theoretically another protocol could be written so that a direction and speed could be sent from the controls to the stander driver, but for ease of use considerations for the patients with CP discrete button presses are preferred here.
Remote Control This works almost exactly like the stander controls, minus the fact that its UART connection goes over a bluetooth bridge. The bluetooth has to be paired up in software.Tools:Crimp tool /wire stripperMultimeterSoldering Iron / Solder-and your choice of whatever you use to solder with (flux, metal sponges, etc.
..)Parts:One->Tiva C LaunchpadFour -> 1x10 female header pins (100mil spacing)One -> 1x40 Male header pins (100mil spacing)One -> LM7805Two -> .1uF CapacitorsTwo->HB25 Motor driverTwo-> Motor/Wheel assembliesOne->BreadboardOne->10k potentiometerOne-> SPST SwitchOne -> USB cable with USB A male end (1.5'+)One -> USB A female socket - or - cable with USB A female end (5"+)Two -> 8" black wire at least 16 gaugeOne -> 12" black wire at least 16 gaugeTwo -> 8" red wire at least 16 gaugeTwo -> 4" red wire at least 16 gaugeSix -> Large Ring connectorsSeven -> Small ring connectorsTwo -> 4" 3 wire servo cables with male and female endsFour -> 3 wire servo cables with 2 male ends (2x8", 2x18")Four ->3 wire servo cables with 3 female ends (2x10", 2x12")One -> Spool of thin flexible wire (I used 24 gauge solid copper)The Easiest way to do this is to make all of the connections to the TIVA launchpad last.
To do this we will make 2 long connectors that will connect the TIVA Launchpad to the breadboard. My connector had this pinout:1 - 3.3V2 - PB0 - Bluetooth UART receive 3 - PB1 - Bluetooth UART transmit4 - PE4 - Stander controls UART receive5 - PE5 - Stander controls UART transmit6 - PB4 - Bumper7 - VBus - Power supply8 - GND - Ground9 - PD0 - Right side (master) PWM10 - PD1 - Left side (slave) PWM11 - PE2 - Potentiometer12 - PC5 - Left side (slave) phase A13 - PC6 - Left side (slave) phase B14 - PD6 - Right side (master) phase A15 - PD7 - Right side (master) phase BThe number on the left is what row on the breadboard it fits into. Following the schematic above connect the breadboard together with plugging in the TIVA Launchpad.
You will need to make or get a number of 3 wire servo cables. Any end that connects into the breadboard will need to end in a male connector. Power RoutingConnecting the PeripheralsThe USB portSince I don't have a standard pinout, I made my own up.
Now that all of the peripherals have connections onto the breadboard, you will need to wire up the connections to the rows where the TIVA C connections will be. This is easier without the TIVA C connector plugged in. The TIVA C ConnectionTools:Small phillips screwdriverWire strippersA drill with drill bits.
Soldering equipmentParts:One->TIVA C LaunchpadFive->Tactile SwitchesFive -> 3.5 mm jacks (2 contacts)One -> USB cable with USB A male end (1.5'+)One->Project BoxOne -> Spool of small connecting wireAll connection here are made soldered onto the pin end of a female header.
Parts:One->Tiva BoardOne-> WT12 Bluetooth ModuleOne->9 volt batteryOne-> 9 volt battery connectorOne->LM7805Two -> .1uF CapacitorsFive->Tacticle Push ButtonsTwo->Toggle SwitchesThree->Plastic Spacers machined form Acrylic block: one 1.25"x2.5"x0.375", one 2.75"x1"x0.25", one 0.75"x1"x0.25"Build:The four directional buttons are arranged in a diamond pattern with the buttons 1" apartDrill the holes for these buttons, along with the holes for the switches in either the configuration shown above or in a configuration comfortable for you.
Inside the box, glue the 1.
25"x2.
5"x0.
375" so that the Tiva board can rest on it, and glue the other two spacers into an L-shape to contain the battery as shown in the picture above.Note: Unfortunately, due to time constraints we were unable to complete the remote for our project. That means that we do not have the code or wiring diagrams for you for this feature.
TestingYou have now loaded all the code, Your hardware may require some debugging so be sure to debug thoroughly. The bump sensor is set up to stop if the command entered is forward once the trigger is activated. The user can back up
The remote control functionality was attempted, but was not fully implemented. care Safety features were not fully developed.Goal: Make interchangeable controls, tray system, wheel and battery box for a mobile pediatric stander.
The accessories have to be capable with different models of the stander, and need to be self contained.Components for Build: *Images courtesy of the Democrat and ChronicleSee attached document below for the required build materials. The tray system was built out of the following parts: The main goals for the tray system are to move left, right, forward and back.
The support system consists of what is below and will be discussed in the next steps:Parts List:44in of 80/20 Inc. T slot Aluminum (1x1in)Six->1/4-20 set screws (1/2in long)Six-> 80/20 Inc. End CapsFourteen-> 80/20 Inc. 10 Series 3204 Standard Slide-in 1/4-20 T-Nut Four 1/4-20 Thumb Screws (1in long)Four-> Right Angle Brackets-> socket head screws (1.
5in long)-> socket head screws (1in long)Tooling: One-> 3mm Allen wrench One-> 3/16in Allen wrench One-> 5/32in Allen Wrench One-> Loctite 262 Thread locker (used on all screws except adjustable thumb screws) One-> ¼-20 TapProcedure:1. Cut the 80/20 T slot Aluminum stock into the following pieces:Quantity-> Dimensions Two-> 5 ½ in One-> 3 3/8 in One->12 in Two-> 1 3/8 in Two-> 8 inDrilling and Tapping Locations: 2. Drill all the ends of the T-slotted material with a 13/64 inch drill bit and then tap them with a ¼-20 tap.
This will allow for the ends to bolted together or have the ends capped. For the thumb screws a ¼ inch drill bit will need to be used to create a hole location that is a ½ inch away from the end.3. Total of six locations will have to be drilled with a ¼ inch drill bit and finished with a 7/16 inch counterbore.
Two total will be placed on either end of the 12 inch T-slot section a half inch from the end to center of the hole. Two other will be at the end of the two 5 ½ inch t-slot sections, a half inch from the end to center of the hole. Note these counterbored holes will need to be on the same side as beauty the holes that were drilled for the thumb screws.
Two will also be added to the 8 inch t-slot section ¾ inch from the end to center of the hole. See picture for assistance on the counterbore locations.4. Attach the sections together as demonstrated in the drawing.
*Loctite in each screw except thumb screws.*Make the upper holding arm out of 1/8 inch aluminum. Cut the pieces to match the drawing above and round them to size, then weld them together.
Hole Locations1/4 inch holes should be drilled to match the locking hinge first on the upper holding arm then transferred over to the lower holding arm.*Note: When attaching the holding arm to the locking hinge, use tape on the bolts to set them in location.Make the top tray platform, tray spacer, and protector sheet out of 1/4 inch acrylic.
Use a band saw and a mill to cut and shape all of the above acrylic pieces. Drill with a counter sunk 1/4 inch drill bit with the holes on the top tray platform and the protector sheet. Use a 1/4 inch drill bit to drill the tray spacer holes.
Make the industry lower holding arm of 1/8 inch aluminum. Cut the pieces to match the drawing above and round them to size, then weld them together.Use this hinge to enable the adjustable locking feature for this project.
It can be found at the Adjustable Locking Technologies's Website.There are two options for adapting the wheel adapters to fit the parallax wheel mount kits.Option 1:The .zip file contains 3D CAD models of a replacement wheel adapter.
These can be used to either 3D print the replacement wheel adapters or have them machined via CNC.There are a few issues with this option:Option 2:The round section of the stock adapter can be machined to fit the parallax wheel adapters. The part of the base of the adapter that faces the wheels from the motor kit needs to be shortened so that the total width is about 1.
625" long.
The front and back sections of it should be machined in equal portions so that its total length is about 2", or until you can reach the bolts in the adapter block with the wheel adapter mounted on it.An adapter is needed to connect the factory wheel mount to the parallax wheel mount. Schematics for the wheel mount system can be found below.
The design was created by RITs MSD group 13045.The battery box was designed to fit the stander driver controls (two motor controllers, the Bluetooth piece, a Tiva board micro controller, a solderless breadboard, and all corresponding wiring) beauty as well as house the battery. Make the box out of 1/4 inch aluminum for robustness and screw placement.
The detailed panel designs can be found in the pdf file below. Weld the box together, except for the top piece and the side that holds the controllers and Tiva board. We recommend welding before drilling and threading the mounting holes as the aluminum will warp during welding.
Widen/move holes as needed to accommodate the plugs post-weld. Machine/sand down the welds to create a smooth finish. Plastic spacers may need to be created when mounting the electronics within the box to overcome the weld joints.
We used scrap acrylic for such spacers.
We recommend power sanding down the surfaces before priming and painting.Materials needed:-Safety glasses-Respirator (mostly for post-processing)-Chopped Strand Mat (CSM) sheet-Polyester Resin and MEKP catalyst-Mixing stick and container (must be PP or PE)-Acetone (not pictured)-2 Pairs of Latex Gloves (cannot use Nitrile unless under the latex) -Paper towels-Disposable Drop cloth (recommended but not required)-Paint brush-Scissors-Utility Knife-Scale (measures to a tenth of a gram)-Ruler or tape measure (not pictured)-80 Grit Sand paper (the coarser the better)CAUTION: This procedure requires the use of volatile chemicals and an irritant. Make sure to work in a well-ventilated area, wear safety glasses, safety gloves, and any other personal protective equipment you deem necessary.
DO NOT WEAR CONTACT LENSES while working with volatile chemicals. Fiberglass can be a mild skin irritant. industry Long sleeves are recommended. Procedure:1. Measure, mark out, and cut the CSM pieces needed. There should be one piece for each surface receiving the insulation.
Allot extra material for some overlap along the inside corners of the box as well as for material to stick up over the edges.2. Sand the inner surfaces of the box that will receive the fiberglass. This step is to roughen the aluminum surface for better bondage with the resin.
3.
Wash out the inside of the box (it's aluminum and won't rust) with soap and water. Dry completely (blast with compressed air if available). 4. Tape down drop cloth over your work surface (if using).
While wearing latex gloves wipe down all surfaces with an acetone-soaked paper towel. Dispose of gloves used gloves. 5. Find the combined mass of all the fiberglass pieces. Put on a fresh pair of gloves and pour out 1.
5-2 times that mass amount of resin (it's better to have more than not enough so you don't have to scramble to mix more while the first batch starts curing). Add 1-5% mass of catalyst to the resin. Mix. DO NOTbeat or whip the resin as air bubbles need to be avoided. Make sure to churn the bottom resin up to ensure complete mixing of the catalyst and resin.
6.
Mix for about 5 minutes or until the mixture turns an amber color.7. Place the pieces over the aluminum sides and wet out the fibers by dabbing resin with the paintbrush. Make sure to properly wet out the fibers – they will turn translucent.
Again it is better to have applied extra resin. Immediately submerge paint brush is acetone once finished wetting out if you want to re-use the brush. Otherwise leave it in a well-ventilated area or fume hood for the polyester in it to fully cure (12 hours).
DO NOT leave on a counter for it will cure to the counter. Rest it over the edge of the mixing cup.8. Wait 30 min and then slice off the excess fiberglass that sticks up out of the box with the utility knife.
It will be easiest during this stage of cure.9. Allow the box to cure untouched for at least 12 hours. Leave the mixing cup and stick in a well-ventilated area or fume hood to finish curing.
DO NOT leave the mixing stick on the counter for it will cure to it. Rest it over the edge of the mixing cup.DO NOT POUR ANY UNCURED RESIN DOWN A SINK – once cured the resin is safe to dispose of in regular trash.
Post-processing: DO NOT DRY SAND OR FILE FIBERGLASS WITHOUT A RESPIRATOR, SAFETY GLASSES, GLOVES, AND A DUST COLLECTION SYSTEM. Fiberglass can permanently irritate and destroy lung tissue if inhaled (similar to asbestos). Wet sanding is the best way to eliminate fiberglass dust from getting into the air.
10.
Once completely cured, Dremmel out any holes or surfaces that may have been covered accidentally with resin while taking all aforementioned safety precautions. Use clamps to hold the plastic to the metal when drilling holes to prevent separation. 11. Carefully sand down plastic, creating a level surface.
Be careful not to sand the material off however.12. After all post processing (external and internal) to the box is complete (including priming and painting) bake the box at 120⁰F for 30-60 minutes in an oven where food will not be prepared. Make sure to run a fan or vent hood while baking as the box will outgas styrene (not healthy) as it bakes.
DO NOT raise the temperature above 120⁰F.Materials:The shelf for the battery box is made out of 1/8" thick sheet aluminum.Feel free to paint the components as you see fit.
In our completed build, we painted them black.There are 3 main Parts to the Electrical system, the stander driver, stander controls, and the remote. The Stander Driver This is the part that remains on the stander at all times.
After you build it you shouldn't have to mess with anything inside the battery box. This is the part that will do most of the heavy lifting as far as the control system is concerned. It asks the other 2 pieces for their input and will take those and a few other things into consideration, (potentiometer and bump sensor), and will translate all of that into a speed for the wheels.
This also encompasses the motor drivers and any other electrical parts on the stander that aren't ever switched out.Stander Controls The controls should be changeable as long as there is a UART connection up top that will respond when called with a named button response. Theoretically another protocol could be written so that a direction and speed could be sent from the controls to the stander driver, but for ease of use considerations for the patients with CP discrete button presses are preferred here.
Remote Control This works almost exactly like the stander controls, minus the fact that its UART connection goes over a bluetooth bridge. The bluetooth has to be paired up in software.Tools:Crimp tool /wire stripperMultimeterSoldering Iron / Solder-and your choice of whatever you use to solder with (flux, metal sponges, etc.
..)Parts:One->Tiva C LaunchpadFour -> 1x10 female header pins (100mil spacing)One -> 1x40 Male header pins (100mil spacing)One -> LM7805Two -> .1uF CapacitorsTwo->HB25 Motor driverTwo-> Motor/Wheel assembliesOne->BreadboardOne->10k potentiometerOne-> SPST SwitchOne -> USB cable with USB A male end (1.5'+)One -> USB A female socket - or - cable with USB A female end (5"+)Two -> 8" black wire at least 16 gaugeOne -> 12" black wire at least 16 gaugeTwo -> 8" red wire at least 16 gaugeTwo -> 4" red wire at least 16 gaugeSix -> Large Ring connectorsSeven -> Small ring connectorsTwo -> 4" 3 wire servo cables with male and female endsFour -> 3 wire servo cables with 2 male ends (2x8", 2x18")Four ->3 wire servo cables with 3 female ends (2x10", 2x12")One -> Spool of thin flexible wire (I used 24 gauge solid copper)The Easiest way to do this is to make all of the connections to the TIVA launchpad last.
To do this we will make 2 long connectors that will connect the TIVA Launchpad to the breadboard. My connector had this pinout:1 - 3.3V2 - PB0 - Bluetooth UART receive 3 - PB1 - Bluetooth UART transmit4 - PE4 - Stander controls UART receive5 - PE5 - Stander controls UART transmit6 - PB4 - Bumper7 - VBus - Power supply8 - GND - Ground9 - PD0 - Right side (master) PWM10 - PD1 - Left side (slave) PWM11 - PE2 - Potentiometer12 - PC5 - Left side (slave) phase A13 - PC6 - Left side (slave) phase B14 - PD6 - Right side (master) phase A15 - PD7 - Right side (master) phase BThe number on the left is what row on the breadboard it fits into. Following the schematic above connect the breadboard together with plugging in the TIVA Launchpad.
You will need to make or get a number of 3 wire servo cables. Any end that connects into the breadboard will need to end in a male connector. Power RoutingConnecting the PeripheralsThe USB portSince I don't have a standard pinout, I made my own up.
Now that all of the peripherals have connections onto the breadboard, you will need to wire up the connections to the rows where the TIVA C connections will be. This is easier without the TIVA C connector plugged in. The TIVA C ConnectionTools:Small phillips screwdriverWire strippersA drill with drill bits.
Soldering equipmentParts:One->TIVA C LaunchpadFive->Tactile SwitchesFive -> 3.5 mm jacks (2 contacts)One -> USB cable with USB A male end (1.5'+)One->Project BoxOne -> Spool of small connecting wireAll connection here are made soldered onto the pin end of a female header.
Parts:One->Tiva BoardOne-> WT12 Bluetooth ModuleOne->9 volt batteryOne-> 9 volt battery connectorOne->LM7805Two -> .1uF CapacitorsFive->Tacticle Push ButtonsTwo->Toggle SwitchesThree->Plastic Spacers machined form Acrylic block: one 1.25"x2.5"x0.375", one 2.75"x1"x0.25", one 0.75"x1"x0.25"Build:The four directional buttons are arranged in a diamond pattern with the buttons 1" apartDrill the holes for these buttons, along with the holes for the switches in either the configuration shown above or in a configuration comfortable for you.
Inside the box, glue the 1.
25"x2.
5"x0.
375" so that the Tiva board can rest on it, and glue the other two spacers into an L-shape to contain the battery as shown in the picture above.Note: Unfortunately, due to time constraints we were unable to complete the remote for our project. That means that we do not have the code or wiring diagrams for you for this feature.
TestingYou have now loaded all the code, Your hardware may require some debugging so be sure to debug thoroughly. The bump sensor is set up to stop if the command entered is forward once the trigger is activated. The user can back up
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